They say you learn something new every day. While I’d like to think that this is true, the older I get, the more I ponder whether I’m actually forgetting something every day. But recently, at least, I learned at least two new things: 1) When properly deployed, a pump sprayer can be used as a weapon of mass collection for gathering razor clams. And, 2), when properly prepared, fresh razor clams are downright delicious.
I’ve also since learned that razor clams are fascinating mollusks. Did you know they can actually swim? I was skeptical at first, as I’m sure you are right now, but it’s true; I witnessed this phenomenon in a YouTube video. A razor clam has developed a way to use its oversized foot to create a form of jet propulsion, similar to a squid.
A razor clam’s large foot provides other benefits as well. It is capable of hopping along the bottom like it is riding on a pogo stick. It uses both modes of transportation to avoid predation and to search for a better home.
Razor clams are quite fussy about choosing a particular residence. They prefer specific habitat, just below the average low-tide mark, and they also have a proclivity for areas with a lot of moving water. In the right spot, densities can reach upward of 200 clams per square yard.
That big foot, combined with a slim profile, also helps it burrow into the bottom amazingly fast and it can go quite deep, down to three feet, if alerted to potential death from above. Razor clams have adapted to become one of the fastest-digging clams on Planet Earth. And for thousands of years, their digging ability was their saving grace to avoid being preyed upon by humans.
Unfortunately for the razor clam, Homo sapiens have adapted into the world’s best problem solvers, and at some point in the last century, a savvy clammer cracked the code and discovered the Achilles heel of the razor clam’s oversized foot.
I first heard of this about a decade ago. I can find no written documentation of when the practice originated and who can claim credit for it, although I did find one article that stated the practice originated in Ireland. If this is indeed true, the technique was derived within the last 46 years since razor clams are not native to Europe; the first documented find there was in 1978. In Massachusetts, commercial harvest grew from 137,000 pounds in 2008, to 728,000 pounds in 2018, which could suggest that the technique became common practice sometime within the past decade. So, what is the secret to gathering razor clams? The answer is salt.
A razor clam leaves a telltale clue as to its whereabouts. Its siphon leaves a keyhole-shaped hole in the bottom, indicating a razor clam lurks below. If you mix up a high-salinity solution, load it into a pump sprayer and squirt it into a hole, a razor clam will pop up to the surface in an attempt to relocate to a new home. I witnessed this fascinating occurrence a few weeks ago with my friend Paul Caruso in Barnstable Harbor on Cape Cod. Paul, a former marine biologist for the state of Massachusetts, had only “salted” razors once before.
Paul and I set out on a full-moon peak low tide. On our first few attempts, we struck out. Perhaps the razor clams were down too deep or the sediment was too dense to allow them to escape their holes. However, as the tide receded, we were met with success.
We pumped about half a cup of the solution into a hole, and a few minutes later, a razor clam would emerge. A few breached completely out of the sand, but most just stuck their necks out.
It was like playing a game of whack-a-mole. Paul sprayed the holes, and I watched like a hawk for the clams to show themselves. Once the tip of the clam emerged, I ran up to it, grabbed it, and begin a game of tug-of-war. The larger specimens put up a surprisingly good fight; some required a second dose of salt to make them surrender. Some even won the war and escaped back into their burrows. We had the most success at the edge of the water at the bottom of the tide, probably because the clams weren’t buried as deep. After using two gallons of solution, we yielded about 50 razor clams and called it a day.
Two weeks later, we returned on the morning of the peak new-moon low tide. This time we were better prepared with four gallons of brine that we mixed even stronger. After doing some research, I learned that 3-2/3 cups of salt is about the maximum that can be dissolved into a gallon of boiling water. We were also more patient this time and waited until the tide bottomed out. The action was fast and furious, and we bagged over 100 razor clams in under an hour.
One might think that the salting procedure could have adverse effects on razor clams, but in 2019, an extensive study was conducted by Roger Williams University. Working with commercial diggers, they studied the effects on the clams as well as the environment surrounding the areas that had been salted. Their findings revealed that the salt solution resulted in minor irritation to the razors’ gills that healed quickly. There was no evidence of any mortality, and the excess salinity in the sand dissipated back to normal levels after 2 to 3 hours. Despite these findings, some towns still prohibit salting to gather razor clams, so be sure to check your local regulations before loading up a pump sprayer. Size regulations and bag limits also vary. In the town of Barnstable, where we were, there is no size limit, and the bag limit is one peck per week.
Let’s Eat Some Razors.
The first night I opted for a simple preparation to get a true taste of their flavor. I steamed them for about four minutes (which is longer than needed) and served them with melted butter. They were fairly mild, not very salty, with a hint of sweetness. What I was most impressed with was the texture—they weren’t chewy as all. They had a bit of a “snap” to them, similar to that of a cooked shrimp.
The following night I served them over pasta and invented the following recipe. Up until that point, I don’t think I’d ever combined clams with mushrooms, which is a shame, because they are a match made in heaven.
Recipe: Pasta with Razor Clams and Mushrooms
(Serves 2-4)
- 20 razor clams (1 cup of chopped meat)
- (1) 10-ounce package fresh pasta (I like Rana brand)
- 1½ cups baby bella mushrooms, sliced
- 2 tablespoons garlic, diced
- 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Pinch of RPFs (red pepper flakes)
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1/3 cup light cream
- 1/3 cup clam broth
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- Black pepper
- Fresh parsley, chopped
- Grated Parmesan cheese
Wash the clams thoroughly under cold water and then steam them for 1 minute, reserving the broth. Allow to cool and shuck out the meat—a clam knife comes in handy for this. (I removed the gnarly-looking black belly portions and discarded them.) Cut the clams into thin strips.
Add two tablespoons olive oil to a large skillet and place it over medium heat. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes, then sauté the mushrooms for about five minutes until they release their liquid. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the butter and wine, then cook for about five minutes until the wine is reduced. Turn the heat to low, and season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta.
Now, add the oregano and chopped clams, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about three minutes. Stir in the cream and clam broth, then toss in the cooked pasta. Give it a taste and season with more salt and/or pepper if needed.
Plate and top it off with Parmesan, then garnish with fresh parsley. Bon Appetit!
Asian-Style Noodles with Clams
(Serves 2)
- 12 large razors clams (or quahogs)
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup spinach, shredded
- 1 large carrot
- 3 green onions
- 2 to 4 dried red chiles (optional)
- 2 clumps Cantonese egg noodles, cooked
- 1 teaspoon Sriracha hot sauce
- 2 teaspoons soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 1/4 cup coconut milk
- 2 cups chicken stock
Wash the clams thoroughly under cold water and steam for 1 minute. Shuck them and remove the black belly portion (or eat it if you dare). Slice lengthwise as thinly as possible.
Slice the white ends of the green onions, and cut the green tops lengthwise, as thin as possible, for garnish.
Add the butter to a pot and toss in the ginger, garlic, and the white parts of the green onions. Cook on medium-low heat for about three minutes.
Use a vegetable peeler to make thin strips out of the carrot. Add the strips and dried chiles to the pot along with the chicken stock. Bring to a brief boil and then reduce heat to low. Stir in the mirin, soy sauce, Sriracha, vinegar, and coconut milk. Remove from heat, add the spinach and clams, and let it rest for two minutes.
Place the cooked noodles in a bowl and top it off with the broth concoction. Garnish with thin slices of green onion. This is a light and spicy dish that could be used with a wide variety of seafood.
With the remaining several dozen razor clams I had left in the fridge, I opted for a classic. Face-planting into a basket of fried clams is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Salty, crunchy, chewy and messy, they are a true comfort food.
Making fried clams at home is not necessarily easy, but if you do it right, you will be rewarded with a superior finished product and the fresh clams will steal the show.
Razor Clams: The Best Fried ClamsYou Will Ever Eat
- 24 razor clams (or steamers)
- ¾ cup corn flour (ground cornmeal)
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 cup buttermilk
- Peanut oil for frying
Wash the clams, steam for one minute, and shuck the meat. Give them a quick rinse under cold water to remove any remaining sand. Next, soak them in the buttermilk for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the dry ingredients. Fill an electric deep fryer about half full with oil and preheat to 360 degrees.
Remove the clams from the buttermilk and sprinkle with salt. Put the flour mixture in a gallon zip-close bag, add the clams, and shake until they are well coated. Refrigerate for ½ hour, shaking the bag occasionally. Fry them up in small batches (I’d say no more than 8 at a time) for about 1 minute, until they just start turning golden brown. Remove, sprinkle with salt, and lay them on a metal drying rack. You can keep them warm in a 200-degree oven while you finish up the remaining batches.
Serve with lemon wedges and dunk them in tartar sauce or try my personal favorite, ketchup. These will make you as happy as a clam!
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